Happy New Year!

 Wishing you and yours a most wonderful 2018!


 Thank you for all your support in 2017. 

A Merry Christmas to all our friends and family

snoopy and woodstock pictures

Training Vent

I believe training dogs is as much an art as it is a science. To deny this is to deny the uniqueness of the dogs we work with. There is no such thing as a ‘one size fits all’ method of training. The more we understand what motivates an individual dog’s behavior the more apt we are to achieve success. Relying on more than one tool in our training toolbox is key when addressing the various temperaments and behaviors of the dogs we are training.  For some dogs, focusing on the behavior will also change the motivating emotional component for the better, for others, dealing solely with the emotional component will cause a positive behavior change, and for still others, dealing with both the emotive and the behavioral will lead to a successful outcome. Do food rewards work in training? Absolutely when teaching and rewarding new behaviors. Do aversives play a role in training? Absolutely, with most dogs all of the time and with some dogs some of the time. If someone tells you otherwise, rest assured that they are not doing right by the dog. All dogs need to learn what is acceptable and what behavior simply won’t be tolerated. The point is to have enough tools on hand to gage what is working and what is not, and to have the knowledge and skill to switch gears when necessary without letting rigid ideologies get in the way of doing right for the dog and his owner.

Timo is my dog with a heart of gold that shines as brightly as his fox red coat.

I have always had Labs and also volunteered for a Lab rescue group. I was asked to evaluate Timo because his former owners could not handle his high energy. He was very destructive and had ripped apart their kitchen cabinets and tile floor not once, but twice, and when I met him he was confined to an enclosed carport to prevent further destruction. He was totally out of control when I met him, jumping and nipping at me like a very large land shark. I took him, not knowing that he would end up being mine. Shortly after I took him home to foster and live with my three other Labs, our rescue coordinator was diagnosed with lung cancer. She passed away six weeks later. There was a mad rush to place the 14 dogs she was fostering and by default Timo became mine. He was a handful from the start and could not be trusted in the house without being tethered to my side. I really did not want a fourth dog, and not one requiring so much work! Yes, he tried my patience more often then I’d like to admit, but at those times especially, I’d look into his eyes and see the intelligence and the love hiding just beneath the surface and I knew I had to help this big bad boy achieve his potential.

He eventually settled down and we trained in earnest. He earned his therapy dog certification and became the dog I knew he always was. Over the years he has become my best friend. We would take long walks in the woods and trips to the beach. We loved to explore street fairs, me always looking for new finds, Timo looking to make new friends. He has helped me through some of the hardest times of my life. Truthfully I don’t know how I would have survived those times without him at my side. I have had many, many dogs throughout my life, each of them very dear and special in their own unique way. I have loved them all. Timo, however, holds a special place in my heart. He is that once in a lifetime dog, my spirit dog,  the dog with which I have the deepest connection. My boy is getting up there in years. He loves to fetch a tennis ball and he loves a good swim. Arthritis has slowed him down and he will limp for days after even some mild activity. His naps are more frequent and the sleep is deep. We don’t take the long walks we use to do. I have to help him into the car and up on to the bed. My boy is slowing down but his spirit is still strong. I know our time together will soon end; if lucky, we may have another year or two before that final goodbye. I will do my best to make whatever time left as joyful and as comfortable as I can for my dear sweet Timo; the dog with a heart of gold that shines as brightly as his fox red coat.

Happy Thanksgiving

Live Right with Your Dog

 

"How You Live With Your Dog

Determines 

How Your Dog Lives With you"

                                        Larry Krohn

I came across this one night while searching the internet and thought it perfectly expressed my own thoughts and philosophy about dog training, so much so, that I had to share.

How do I train dogs? "I train the dog I am training." While this might be ambiguous, it is true. I have been getting drilled on my training method.... so here it is - hopefully more cut and dried.

Training is about getting into your dog´s head, and understanding what motivates him, what make him smile, and what concerns him. It helps to be able to think like your dog, so that you can be one step ahead of him.

This is defined as a relationship with your dog. You understand him so well that you can think for him, know his struggles in advance, and adjust his mood as needed, to help him learn what he needs to learn to be the best dog that he can be.
Cookies cannot buy this. Corrections cannot buy this. Something this precious and this complex cannot be purchased with a cookie or a leash correction.

You should be able to laugh at him for his silly antics, realize when he is trying but misunderstood your words compared with when he completely blows you off because you are not important compared to what is going on. Or realize when he disobeyed, but gave you his all - and could give you nothing better.

You must realize when he is stressed by his environment and needs more help from you, or when he is stressed by his environment and needs to be told to grow up and act like a man.

You need to be aware when something completely alien might be going on - is he sitting really slow because he hurt himself?
So the question still remains of "What method do I use." I train the dog I am training. There is no one thing that I can do to create the beautiful relationship that I have with my dogs. I respect dogs for who they are, I believe in their potential, build on their strengths, and chip away at their weaknesses. I build a relationship with them so that they care what I think and try really hard to please me. I build them up to be the best that they can be, and encourage certain traits to hide their weaknesses. I truly "train the dog that I am training".

There are no rules for this process to take place. What is necessary for one dog might be detrimental in that moment for another. While in puppy class, I might instantly stop one puppy from dragging his owner, and I might request another owner to allow their puppy to drag them for two more weeks before we stop it. There are no absolute rules when it comes to training dogs.

Each dog has to be trained by his own criteria, working with what he brings to the table. Every dog has the same goals and directions, but we might get there fifty different ways, depending on the learning ability, emotional need and intelligence of the dog, and always considering the handling abilities and personality of the handler. Our timeline will vary as much as our methods; you can only train the dog at the speed of the dog. This is a relationship, between one dog and one human, and rules might need to be gently bent and swayed, depending upon the individuals.

This is not science. It is art. We are given a blank canvas with every puppy that we get, and it is our creation to build, alter, discourage, or deny. Each of our canvases will look different when our dogs are a year old, depending upon our feel and timing, our dreams and vision, our denial, our work ethic, and the dogs that we get.

How can you define this training method with one set of limiting rules? You can't.

I train the dog I am training.

Monique Anstee,
Victoria, BC

Crisis Management for Dog Aggression with your Personal Dogs

 Cheri Lucas tells it like it is!

 This video is about crisis management and damage control when you're on the precipice of an aggression issue between your dogs. If you’ve had a bad fight between two or more of your dogs or if you can see that you’re on the verge of having a fight, or a bite, then this video is for you. Please keep the context of this video in mind when you’re viewing it. It’s not meant for everyday issues, although some if not all of this can be applied to other behavioral issues in measured doses, with significant success.

Act as if your dog is irrelevant to you. Develop a command presence around your dogs. Don’t give any affection or practice baby talk. It creates excitement which is always a precursor to a fight. It can also be misunderstood by your dog as softness or weakness. Don't allow the dogs to claim you or your space. No leaning, sitting on your feet, or positioning themselves in front of you. Ask for respect from your dogs by creating an aura of space around you that your dog can't breach without your permission or invitation.

Get your dog out of your bed. When they’re on the same physical level as you, they consider themselves to be your equal or superior to you. Feed your dogs apart from each other. Food conditions the brain to be excited plus it’s one more thing for them to fight over. Walk your dogs together if possible. Make sure they walk in complete control - by your side or behind you. Otherwise the exercise will not be effective.

Everything must be on your terms. Ask for something before you giving anything, including going through thresholds or eating. Remember that leadership is a gift to your dog. It is not punishment. Commit to the process and stay consistent.

Be 100% in it. Wholeheartedly embrace and make peace with the program. Believe in this strategy without reservations. After all, you can always go back to your old ways.
Accept the fact that if you don't change the way you relate to your dog, you will not see any behavior changes in your dog.

And last but not least….avoid complacency. If what you’re doing is working, don’t get lazy or complacent. The reason it’s working is because the changes you made are the right ones.

Website: CheriLucasDogBehavior.com
Facebook: facebook.com/CheriWulffLucas
Public Figure: facebook.com/CheriLucasDogBehavior/
Instagram: instagram.com/cherithedogbehaviorist
Email: doggierehab@gmail.com
www.SecondChanceLove.org

Hyperarousal is a sign of stress

Stress is the cause of many unwanted behaviors. A calm body is a calm mind. If your dog often displays these signs of hyperarousal help him learn to calm down by teaching a few simple exercises to alleviate his stress.

I promise your dog will thank you.

The Couple Who Lives with Wolves [Full Documentary]

How to properly fit a harness

While I'm not a big fan of harnesses except for the little one's with weak tracheas, this guide may help those of you who are using them how to properly fit a harness on your dog. I cringe when I see a dog wering a poorly fitted harness, knowing how common it is for a determined dog to back out of it and run away, sometimes right into the path of an oncoming car. So as a public service I am posting this guide.

Land Sharks!

Have a Happy and Safe 4th of July

In My Good Death:

I will find myself in high summer grass.
The humming shock of the golden light.
And I will hear them before I see them
and know right away who is bounding across the field to meet me.
All my good dogs will come then, their wet noses bumping against my palms,
their hot panting, their rough, faithful tongues.
Their eyes young and shiny again.
The dense scruff of their fur,
The unspeakable softness of their bellies,
their velvet ears against my cheeks.
I will bend to them, my face covered with their kisses,
My hands full of them.
In the grass I will let them knock me down."

 

                                                                   Dalia Shevin

..."most dogs die because of what they do. If you can stop the unacceptable behavior, they live. Whether they have been taught to roll over or fetch has no bearing in their survival. It’s what they do that kills them, not what they don’t know how to do." - Gary Wilkes

 I read this piece by Gary Wilkes today and thought it was important enough to share. Most dogs are brought to shelters and then die there because of what they do. Teaching them what not to do is what most owners want and what many dogs need to learn quickly and efficently. I would love nothing more than to throw treats at dogs all day long, but as that old song goes, 'sometimes love ain't enough'.

Gary Wilkes' Real Clicker Training

Adherence to a flawed ideology resembles nothing so much as abject stupidity…GW

Top of Form

Bottom of Form

The Assumption of Imagined Harm

Posted on March 13, 2014

In the war over ethical training techniques there is a boogeyman – imagined harm. Trainers that pander to exclusively “positive” methods use this boogeyman to suppress logical and open discussion of the topic. That is because their perspective has no rational basis and cannot become paramount unless they suppress logical criticism. Their primary tool is to propose that any use of aversive control is dangerous and will lead to some imagined harm. That is obviously an irrational statement. A leash and collar inhibits free movement and compels the dog to hold an arbitrary distance from the handler. Not only is this not automatically harmful, all trainers, vets, shelter workers and pet owners use leashes and collars – even the anti-punishment ideologues. This begs the question of why someone would propose a wide-sweeping claim that the most casual observation contradicts. The answer may surprise you. They do this because it allows them to create the fantasy that they are ethically superior while silencing anyone who would question their statements. i.e. The anti-punishers promote imagined harm in order to win the argument.

An Example: False dichotomies

The tools for creating imagined harm are often removing any real-world context and creating arbitrary and unrealistic dichotomies. Here’s an example from the ASPCA’s webs pages on training.

“Some training methods use punishment, like leash corrections and scolding, to discourage dogs from doing everything except what you want them to do. Other methods cut right to the chase and focus on teaching dogs what you do want them to do. While both tactics can work, the latter is usually the more effective approach, and it’s also much more enjoyable for you and your dog.”

The first sentence is a prime example of removal of context and a false dichotomy. They have created a straw man who uses only punishment, all the time. The two types of punishment they offer are leash corrections and scolding – relatively mild forms of punishment. If leash corrections and scolding are somehow harmful then all dogs in the US have been harmed because they wear collars and inevitably hit the end of a leash, if only by accident. This leads to several obvious questions. Why would using such moderate punishments automatically imply that one uses only punishment? (The stress on the neck from veterinary technicians and shelter workers attempting to subdue fractious dogs often exceeds anything that a trainer would do, even our imagined “all punishment” trainer.) Why would leash corrections and scolding be able to stop every behavior other than acceptable behaviors? If they are capable of that power and all dogs experience these things (apparently to no purpose) why wouldn’t a rational person use scolding and leash corrections as a part of their training protocol? If the unacceptable behaviors stop, why would they straw man continue to punish the dog?

The second sentence leads us to a variation on the false premise of the first sentence. This suggests that teaching the dog what to do is the more direct means of achieving a trained dog. What is completely missing is an understanding that reinforcement and punishment have opposite effects. One effect decreases behavior and one increases behavior. If the goal is to stop the dog from jumping on guests, positive reinforcement does not “cut to the chase.” It delays the solution by using the wrong tool. This is only logical. Punishment stops or reduces behavior immediately and positive reinforcement, by definition, cannot stop anything. EG: “Cut to the chase” means skipping the extraneous scenes of a western movie to get to the action – meaning the important part of the movie.

The important part of a behavior procedure is to get to the solution in a timely fashion. If you delay the solution by using the wrong tool you leave the animal in jeopardy. Pet owners do not have forever or always to solve problems like jumping up on kids or destroying furniture. They need solutions that occur rapidly, safely and without complex procedures that barely blunt the dog’s behavior. So, no, there is no logical evidence that teaching dogs what to do is at all more effective. On the contrary – most dogs die because of what they do. If you can stop the unacceptable behavior, they live. Whether they have been taught to roll over or fetch has no bearing in their survival. It’s what they do that kills them, not what they don’t know how to do. Promoting the concept that we just need to teach them new behaviors completely ignores the context. As for positive methods being more enjoyable for you and your dog, consider what it’s like to constantly have to use treats to bribe an animal into obedience – and still having it fail routinely when a more powerful motivation intrudes – like a cat running quickly through the yard. The “positive’ methodology promotes a process that is pleasant to do, but leaves consequences that are far from pleasant and may be lethal. That possible result is conveniently removed from the context.

Exaggeration – The Number 1 Tool

Another common tool of the anti-punishment ideologue is to exaggerate wildly and assume that any use of aversive control causes horrible “side effects.” They never talk about intended, beneficial primary effects like saving a dog’s life by applying a controlled, temporary procedure that includes unpleasantness but insures a long life. For instance, this is an inert, menthol inhaler. It

looks a bit like a lipstick tube. I recently used one to stop a 90 pound Chesapeake from jumping and knocking down a four year old little boy. When the dog jumped up, I put the inhaler to his nose. I repeated it until I couldn’t get him to jump up – clearly a punishment procedure. Then I gave the inhaler to the little boy – who chased the dog around unsuccessfully for a couple of days and then gave up the game. The result was a dog that was cautious about running willy-nilly through the house or jumping on the child. Ask yourself how this use of punishment could result in the following “side effects.” Again from the ASPCA…

“Alternatively, you could grab your dog’s leash and jerk her to the ground every time she jumps up to greet people, and you’d most likely get the same effect in the end—no more jumping up. But consider the possible fallout:

• Your dog might decide that people are scary since she gets hurt whenever she tries to greet them—and she might try to drive them away by growling or barking the next time they approach.
• Your dog might decide that YOU are scary since you hurt her whenever she tries to greet people.”

As you can see, the author exaggerated and described an imagined, specific procedure when the topic was supposed to be about the general behavioral effect called punishment. To make sure that the scenario would be horrific to the average pet owner, she included the words “jerk” “hurt” and “scary” to imply pain, damage, fear and suffering. (Again, jerking a dog by the neck is a standard practice in shelters – including the ASPCA shelter in Manhattan.) There are several reasons why this is ludicrous and dishonest. By scientific definition the presentation of a stimulus that causes a behavior to stop is “positive punishment.” Therefore, by definition, I plainly punished the Chesapeake. However, nothing I did hurt the dog. The dog wasn’t even wearing a leash. There was no harmful fallout. The dog was not frightened by any aspect of the training. The only emotional reaction you could use would be “caution.” Why doesn’t the SPCA offer a caution about specific dangers of specific procedures rather than lumping all punishment into the category of abuse? My use of the Vicks inhaler benefited the dog, the child and the dog’s owner. How can this use of punishment cause harm? Of course, it can’t. To get you to obey them, the ASPCA has to scare you. That creates an ironic hypocrisy – the ASPCA claims that scaring a dog is abusive but scaring people to force compliance with their ideology is not.  

No context, no analysis of results:
When you read this stuff you will find that there is never a discussion of the full context of the need for behavioral control. 7-8 out of ten dogs in this country will not see their first birthday. Shelters see about 20% of the overall walking-dead and kill 80% of the ones they get. The reason most dogs are taken to shelters is because they do things that families and individuals cannot live with. If the behaviors can be stopped, they live, if not, not.

In the example of the dog being jerked to stop it from jumping, who cares about that if the behavior disappears? (Before you jump to conclusions, all vet hospitals, shelters and boarding kennels use “slip lead” collars that constrict the neck when tightened. Poll any dozen vets and ask if they have ever seen a neck injury they can attribute to a choke chain or other slip collar. I did about a year ago just to make sure my information was correct. Of a dozen vets, two ER vets, none of them had ever treated a dog for a neck injury from a collar of any kind. ) While the description is loaded with exaggerated dangers it doesn’t tell you the likely result of the dog doesn’t stop jumping on people – death. If it was proven that jerking a dog by the neck would prevent it from getting killed, would you refuse to do it? (The ASPCA pretends that teaching an alternate behavior will end the jumping, but that is simply nonsense. Teaching you French doesn’t stop you from speaking English. Meaning, positive reinforcement cannot stop behaviors. At best it adds to the dog’s repertoire. The old behavior may be less likely to happen but it isn’t blocked from returning. Research by Ivan Pavlov confirms reality – old car thieves may go straight, but if they ever need to steal a car again, they still know how to do it. That means that if you can get a dog to sit instead of jumping the dog will likely return to jumping when he stops getting treats for sitting. In almost all cases, that does not save the dog’s life.)

To retain their pets and have a happy home, dog owners need to stop unacceptable behaviors once and for all. They cannot spend a fortune and many hours of each day controlling their dog. Most of the behaviors that need stopping are innocuous but deadly. Like walking too close to a rattle snake. The actual behavior is innocuous but the result can be catastrophic. Regularly knocking down a small child is no different. (Oddly, anti-punishment people do not oppose using electric shock collars to teach dogs to avoid rattle snakes but would never countenance using the same collar to teach a dog to not knock down children – even though the outcome for the dog is identical but the odds of dying from a rattle snake are miniscule by comparison.) This selective acceptance of punishment is mindless and hypocritical…but, then, their world-view is mindless and hypocritical. They claim to love animals – yet attack methods that could save lives. That harm isn’t imagined – it’s plain to see and smell at a landfill near you.

Just sayin'

Just Sayin'

A Must Read for Shelter Workers

-->

A worthwhile read, especially if your goal is to improve the lives of shelter dogs. Robert Cabral has an exceptional understanding of the stresses shelter dogs experience and offers practical hands-on training advise, free of useless politically correct pseudo ‘science’, for helping dogs cope (and behave) in a shelter environment so they can successfully transition to a home. Should be required reading for shelter and rescue workers and volunteers.

Happy Mother's Day

It takes grace to nurture a soul,

the maternal spirit knows no bounds. 

I'm looking forward to Frank Vincenti's lecture in Manhasset

Why won’t my dog stop barking?

A dog that barks incessantly is a real nightmare for its owners. This type of barking isn’t done to annoy you, though it is annoying, but is your dog’s way of trying to communicate a message to you. Understanding the message is the key to stopping this unwanted behavior.

 

There are generally 4 reasons why a dog barks continuously. They are boredom, fear, confusion and belligerence.  These are triggers that all owners can learn to recognize. Once you understand why the barking is occurring it becomes easier to eliminate it.

 

Is your dog bored? Is he getting enough long walks with time to sniff and explore?  Have you taught him to play fetch or tug, with rules to learn and adhere to? Often we leave our dog home alone for 9 or more hours while we work. We return home tired and stressed, let them out in the yard to do their business and because we are tired from a day of working, we expect them to lie quietly at our side in the evening before we retire to bed. From your dog’s perspective, he has done nothing but experience the same boring routine for hours, days and even weeks on end. The old adage “a tired dog is a good dog” is true. Mental and physical stimulation along with structure and routine are key for a well-balanced dog.

 

Does your dog bark at the vacuum? How about at other dogs when out for a walk? Could be he is afraid. He will benefit, (and so will you!), from a program of desensitization and counter-conditioning to help him overcome his fears. You don’t know what that means? Give us a call. We’d be glad to help.

 

There are dog’s that bark out of a sense of confusion. They see something they are unsure of. Is it friendly, is it going to do harm?  He may simply not know how to react. It is our job to take the lead and show him by being calm and in control the proper way to behave. Praise calm behavior and interrupt the unwanted behavior as soon as it begins, (or better yet, as soon as you sense a change in your dog’s demeanor indicating he is about to erupt).

 

Then there are those demanding dogs that bark because they feel entitled to more of your attention or a share of your food. We call them spoiled! They are use to getting what they want and have no tolerance for “no”. Often owners of this type of barker give in, if only to quiet them, creating a vicious circle by reinforcing the very behavior they want to stop. It’s never too late to start teaching your dog self-control as well as letting him know his behavior will not be tolerated.

 

There is no overnight fix for constant barking, but with consistency and the help of a trainer, nuisance barking can be stopped. In as much as you find it annoying it is most unhealthy for your dog’s well being. For his state of mind, and for yours, it is worth the time, effort and expense to show him a better, healthier way to live.

A few truths I've learned... By Sean O'shea

-Leading dogs makes them happier, more secure, less stressed, better behaved, more fun, happier.
-Correcting bad behavior is the way to change bad behavior. Make bad behavior uncomfortable and good behavior comfortable.
-Redirecting and offering alternatives doesn't stop bad behavior. It only does what it says.
-Sharing consequences for poor choices is your job and responsibility, whether you enjoy it or not.
-Positive reinforcement is awesome for teaching what you want, not so awesome for teaching what you don't.
-99% of dog issues come from permissiveness, allowance, softness, doting.
-People treat dogs like glass. They're hearty, robust creatures. Their minds and bodies are more resilient than we give them credit for.
-E-collars and prong collars, although terribly named, are typically the most effective and easiest tools on the dog.
-E-collars and prong collars, although terribly named, are typically the most effective and easiest tools on the owner.
-Dogs, like kids, will resist structure, leadership, and guidance. And just like kids, they'll either thrive because of them or suffer in their absence.

Top of Form

Bottom of Form

Rin Tin Tin and Rusty

Rin Tin Tin IV was co-owned and trained by Lee Duncan and Frank Barnes of Hollywood, California. Frank Barnes, a fine motion picture dog trainer of "Flame" and "Gray Shadow" German Shepherds, handled Rin Tin Tin IV on tour promoting the television show.

Happy Cinco de Mayo

Should I Call a Dog Trainer?

-->

There are many reasons people give up their dogs. First and foremost it is because of seemingly out of control behavior issues. Issues ranging from destructive chewing, house soiling, uncontrollable barking, jumping, lunging and growling at other dogs to more dangerous behaviors including food guarding, biting and fighting with another dog in the home. The reasons are varied and I could go on and on adding to the list. What matters in the end is that if that dog’s behavior doesn’t change he will end up either re-homed if he is lucky, or more often than not, he will end up in a shelter where he has a good chance of dying.

 I know you love your dog and I know you have reached your limit.  You have poured through training books trying to make sense out of the often conflicting advise you are told. You have listened to your friends, your relatives and the so-called dog experts in your neighborhood or local dog park. But still, the bad behaviors persist, or worse, they become more pronounced. So now you have a choice to make, either get rid of the dog or bite the bullet and seek professional help.

 How I wish you had called me early on, before the bad habits had taken hold. It is so much easier to instill good habits than it is to break bad ones.  If there is one piece of advise I could give to new dog owners it would be this: Don’t wait until your dog’s behavior is out of control or dangerous before you seek professional help. The sooner a problem is dealt with, the easier the fix.  If you’ve never had a dog before, or never had ‘that type’ of dog before, call a trainer. Call us when your 12-week-old puppy can’t play with you without biting. Call us when your puppy is a bundle of energy that seems to never subside. Pay attention to his behavior. If you see behaviors that make you uncomfortable give us a call.  Don’t wait until the choice is between a trainer and a shelter.  There is help out there. It is up to you to ask for it.

-->

Perfect Bliss

 Who could ask for anything more!

Clicker Training Gone Wrong

Smartest Dog In The World - Jumpy 123 trick

Happy Easter

Cleo’s Pumpkin Dog Biscuits

Here’s the recipe from Simmer till Done:

Cleo’s Pumpkin Dog Biscuits

2 eggs
1/2 cup canned pumpkin
2 tablespoons dry milk
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 1/2 cups brown rice flour *
1 teaspoon dried parsley (optional)

Preheat oven to 350.

In large bowl, whisk together eggs and pumpkin to smooth. Stir in dry milk, sea salt, and dried parsley (if using, optional). Add brown rice flour gradually, combining with spatula or hands to form a stiff, dry dough. Turn out onto lightly floured surface (can use the brown rice flour) and if dough is still rough, briefly knead and press to combine.

Roll dough between 1/4 – 1/2″ – depending on your dog’s chew preferences, ask first – and use biscuit or other shape cutter to punch shapes, gathering and re-rolling scraps as you go. Place shapes on cookie sheet, no greasing or paper necessary. If desired, press fork pattern on biscuits before baking, a quick up-and-down movement with fork, lightly pressing down halfway through dough. Bake 20 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully turn biscuits over, then bake additional 20 minutes. Allow to cool completely on rack before feeding to dog.

* Brown rice flour gives the biscuits crunch and promotes better dog digestion. Many dogs have touchy stomachs or allergies, and do not, like many people I know, tolerate wheat.

Makes up to 75 small (1″) biscuits or 50 medium biscuits

Good article in The Bark by Kama Brown CPDT-KA

RECENTLY, I VISITED AMERICAN FRIENDS IN the UK who had moved from Dallas to London’s Kensington South. Since relocating, they had adopted a cat and were considering getting a puppy. However, after reviewing their previous dog experiences, they realized that the dogs they raised had not been nearly as well behaved as the dogs they saw in their new city. As we chatted over drinks, they asked my opinion as a dog trainer: Why were the dogs in London behaved better than the dogs back home? What were dog owners in London doing differently? I told them I would make it a point to watch dogs as we traveled through England, Belgium and France, and report back to them. Following are my observations. > Dogs in the UK and in the countries we visited were allowed almost everywhere. We saw them in bakeries in Belgium, inside French toy stores, in the Stonehenge museum, at markets, on elevators, on the trolley, on the train. > It was common to see dogs off leash, except in areas where waterfowl were present. > Children were discouraged from interacting with strangers’ dogs. Over and over, I heard parents tell their children, “Don’t distract them, darling.” > Owners did not give their dogs obedience commands. I never saw a dog asked to wait before going through a doorway, sit for a pat, stay quiet on a train or lie down under a table. The dogs often did do these things, but they were not asked to do them. > Young dogs in Europe did the same things as young dogs in America. A nine-month-old black Labrador jumped onto a counter to sniff the cheese selection at the market. A small mixed breed stopped to sniff each interesting spot. When a young Bulldog resisted going down the stairs to the Underground, the owner coaxed him down each new step. A man with a very young puppy walked quickly to keep the puppy from picking up objects he found along the way. Nothing I saw made me think that European dogs were born well behaved. > The general public ignored the dogs. I never saw anyone ask to pet or give treats to a stranger’s dog. When I approached to inquire about a dog’s age and breed, the response was brief. If I gave a compliment, the answer was often “Oh, that’s very kind.” This noninteraction included other dogs as well. Dogs would see each other or stand near each other but were not allowed to sniff or play. As I examined my notes, I couldn’t help notice that the way dogs are treated in Europe is strikingly similar to the way we treat (or strive to treat) service dogs in the U.S. From an early age, the environment created for service dogs is meant to keep them calm and comfortable, which keeps them quiet as well. Young service dogs in training are walked through crowds of people who ignore them. Children are taught not to distract them. The dogs are not able to sniff or play while they’re working. We treat service dogs this way because we understand that interacting with them makes training harder for their handler. As a dog trainer, I understand how access to many environments and being ignored by strangers creates success for dogs and their people. When strangers frequently offer treats and attention, or allow their dogs to rush into another dog’s space, it produces specific emotional responses, which will arise each time a new person or a strange dog approaches. Sometimes, this emotion is pleasure, but more often, anxiety, over-exuberance or defensive behavior is manifested. There is no need to ask a dog to sit if no one is approaching. Nor is there a reason a dog would pull toward strangers who have typically ignored him. If being taken to new places were a regular occurrence, it would not excite a dog into lunging through doorways. If barking and pulling were consistently ignored in young dogs, those behaviors could never become a game or a way to get attention. Unlike the restrictions put on U.S. dog owners, Europeans are able to consistently expose their dogs to new sounds, sights and smells, which mentally enriches the dogs without overstimulating them. If a dog receives no reinforcement from strangers, the owner will never have to calm an excited dog or manage a fearful one. It gives dogs freedom to focus on their owners because nothing interesting is coming at them from another source. People have the freedom to work or relax with their dogs in a variety of environments without needing to fend off a strange person or dog, and their dogs gain confidence from knowing exactly what to expect. So when I reported back to my friends, I told them that they should have no trouble raising their puppy to be a well-behaved European dog. Their fellow Londoners would do 75 percent of the work for them by ignoring the dog, keeping their children from interacting with him, allowing him access to a wide range of socialization opportunities, and keeping their own dogs under control. My fiends would only need to build a strong bond with their puppy and teach him basic manners. It turns out that it’s not dog owners who are doing things differently across the pond, it’s everybody else.

Take the Lead

While opportunities for full public socialization are more limited in the U.S. than they are in Europe, there are still ways to instill European-style behaviors in our dogs.

• Create a neutral experience for your dog in a variety of places. The simplest way is to kindly ask that no one pet your dog while he is on a six-foot leash. The dog will begin to recognize that being on a short leash means ignoring others, and that being let off-leash is a chance to interact and play. (For those without access to safe off-leash areas, putting the dog on a 30-foot training lead works just as well.)

• Reward your dog with praise and attention when he notices other dogs, people, loud noises or things that are new to him, but encourage him to focus on you and maintain a relaxed and calm demeanor. Too much interaction and exuberance can lead the puppy or dog to distraction in the future.

• Keep high-value rewards with you in the event a person or dog rushes in. If walking, continue to walk, and offer your dog a treat once the excitement has passed and your dog begins to look up at you. If sitting, wait for the other dog to leave and reward your dog for refocusing on you.

• Use food toys to your advantage. Practice going to a busy place, sit down, place a food-stuffed toy at your feet and do not let anyone pet your dog. In a few sessions, most dogs will lie down and settle almost immediately when their owner sits.

By being proactive and putting these tips into practice, we can train others to have the same respect for pet dogs in training as they do for service dogs. Who knows—we may be able to influence greater access for our U.S. dogs, which would allow them to be part of our daily lives the way those in Europe are today.

Kama Brown CPDT-KA, is a dog trainer, author, speaker and the co-owner of FÖRSTÅ Dog [3], a company dedicated to enhancing canine life through enrichment and scent work.
forstadog.com [3]

ILLUSTRATION BY LORNA SCOBIE

---

Source URL (retrieved on 1/8/2017): http://thebark.com/content/why-are-european-dogs-so-well-behaved?page=show

Links:
[1] http://thebark.com/print/7839?page=show
[2] http://thebark.com/category/author/kama-brown
[3] http://forstadog.com